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Printing instructions: 1. All patterns are hand-made line drawings scanned in a jpg format. 2. Right-click on the black and white drawing(s), and select "save as" 3. Open the saved file with a NON-SCALING graphic programs, such as MS Paint, which is installed on all Windows-based computers.. 4. Assemble multiple-page patterns with adhesive tape. General instructions: 1. All patterns are hand-made line drawings scanned in a jpg format. 2. Some of the pieces are intricate and will require use of a 1/4" grinding bit. The 1/4” grinding bit can be installed ON TOP of the regular grinding bit, so you don't need to change back and forth. Keep a wet sponge handy to moisten the 1/4” bit as you grind. The 1/4” grinding bit is ESSENTIAL to accurately render the life-like quality of the designs. 3. A few patterns contain pieces that can only be cut approximately, and must be ground to shape. I try to limit those to pieces where a break line would ruin the feel of the subject. 4. Certain details are rendered as foil overlay. A foil overlay is where you cut a piece of copper foil into a shape that is stuck on the glass surface, and to which solder is added (make a nice bead). If you see a “break line” that stops in the middle of a piece, it's a foil overlay! 5. Some bird-of-paradise suncatchers have wire tails that extend past the edges. I suggest these are done with a heavy-gauge copper wire. Panel instructions: 1. Large panels are a series of jpg images that you must print and assemble. Tricky as the assembly may be, it is far more convenient and accurate than enlargement with photocopiers. Please follow these guidelines: 2. No matter how hard you try, the lines will not match perfectly. Do the best you can, and when assembly is completed, "force" the lines to line up with a pen. 3. Use a large carpenter's square ruler to insure that the pattern is a PERFECT rectangle. This is crucial. Especially with a large panel, small deviations from a perfect rectangle are unforgiving when framing with zinc or wood. 4. To make template pieces for cutting, carefully tape pages of blank paper together. I like to stick the pattern template on a window (nature's lightbox!), overlay the assembled blank paper, and trace. Even if the lines weren't a 100% match during assembly, this step will ensure that your piece templates will match the full pattern template. 5. For very large panels (windows) Additional reinforcement is highly recommended. Securing the zinc frame within a custom-made wooden frame is highly effective. Running copper wire along main design lines may be useful. Some people use re-strip, but the delicate nature of the pieces in my design may make this difficult. You may wish to use some assistance when turning the window over to solder the second side, as it will be surprinsingly flexible! Chainless Box instructions: Boxes can be assembled without cumbersome chains and hinges if they have a "stopper" like the top of the grafted cactus pattern provided on this web site. Materials include two hinge tubes, one of which can fit sungly into the other. 1. The box top sides should be about 3mm longer than the sides of the box. 2. Solder the sides of the box, holding against bottom piece pattern. The corner grooves in the back (left and right) should only be tack soldered, as they must be free to receive the hinge at a later step. Solder the sides to the bottom piece. Solder the box top separately.
4. Place assembled box top on a flat surface, as well as the large hinge tube pieces, with the opening facing outward. The box top should be soldered to the hinge tube right on the flat surface, to ensure the tubes are flush with the back of the glass (very important!). 6. Insert small hinge tube in the large hinge tube, and gently bend 90 degrees with pliers. Place box top with on the rest of the box, and tack solder the small hinge tube to the back piece of the box sides, flush with the outside back of the box. It must be flush in order for the chainless concept to work. 7. Now the hinge must be finely adjusted. Open the box. If the box top tends to fall forward and shut, gently bend back the top of the small hinge tube outward until the boxtop stays vertical when opened. When you are satisfied, paint hinge connection with liquid paper to avoid accidental soldering, and solder completely the small hinge tube to the sides.
8. After the box is completed and patinaed, you may cut out a piece of felt the shape of the bottom piece, and rubber glue it on the outside of the bottom piece. The felt will prevent the box from scratching the finish on your furniture. Skirted lamp shade assembly instructions: 1. Prepare a wooden rig to ensure uniformity of panel sizes for lamps and all large 3D projects.
2. Clean the pieces with a flux-removing soap and dry thoroughly for this step. Lay top pieces of the lamp shade right side up, lining up the tops and bottoms as accurately as possible. Fasten each with a two pieces of flexible, elastic tape, such as black electrical tape. Carefully lift up the pieces together, and fasten the last two pieces and tack solder the bottom and the top of each panel.
3. When the pieces are held up securely, fill up the grooves with drips of solder. Reinforce the top with copper wire, and attach the pre-tinned cap. Manipulating the lamp delicately in a box filled with crumpled up newspaper, solder the side completely, inside and out. 4. Now assemble the skirt: holding the lamp upside down, tack solder the skirt pieces one by one, then solder to firmly secure the pieces. Reinforce the bottom of the skirt with copper wire, and finish soldering the skirt pieces. If gaps cause solder to drip through, hold a moist sponge behind the gap to stop the flow of solder.
5. Install tinned vase cap: insure cap is levelled.
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